Home Solar Batteries 2026 and a buyer's Roadmap

Quick-Scan Box

Make your decision in 30 seconds:

• 10 kWh battery = 8–12 hours of essentials (fridge, lights, Wi-Fi) during an outage
• Typical installed cost: $9,500 → $6,600 after federal 30% tax credit
• Payback range: 5–8 years if your utility charges peak rates (time-of-use); 10–15 years if you have full net-metering (all excess fed to grid at same rate)

The 7 p.m. Problem (And How a Battery Fixes Your Bill)

It's 6:55 p.m. on a summer evening. Your solar panels are going dark. In the next five minutes, your utility's rate will jump from 8¢ per kWh to 42¢ per kWh. Your air conditioner kicks in. Your oven turns on. Your Tesla charger starts pulling 7 kW. Without a battery, that peak-rate spike hits your bill hard—often the single most expensive hour of your day.

A home battery changes the equation. Throughout the sunny afternoon, it silently captured the excess energy your panels weren't using. Now, at 7 p.m., that stored power runs your home. You draw almost nothing from the grid during the peak-rate hour. Instead of paying 42¢ for 20 kWh (which happens to hundreds of thousands of US homeowners every summer evening), you pay almost nothing. That one hour saves you between $8 and $16. Over a summer of 90 evenings, a single time-of-use arbitrage opportunity can return $720–$1,440 annually—even before counting outage protection or environmental benefits.

This is why solar batteries matter. They're not just about independence. They're about flipping the economics of your power bill from the grid's favor to yours.

But before you order one, you need to answer three qualification questions. Most people skip this step and end up with a battery that doesn't fit their utility structure.

Can I Even Add a Battery? (The Pre-Purchase Decision Tree)

Before sizing, shopping, or financing, confirm your situation allows a battery to actually save money—and that your home can legally have one.

2.1 Check Your Utility's Rate Structure

Your utility determines how much a battery will save you. Three scenarios exist:

Scenario A: Time-of-Use (TOU) Rates Your utility charges different rates depending on the time of day. Peak hours (typically 4–9 p.m.) cost 3–5× more than off-peak hours (typically 9 p.m.–6 a.m.). Examples: Southern California Edison, PG&E California, Xcel Energy (Colorado, Minnesota).

→ Battery ROI: Excellent. A 10 kWh battery can save $500–$1,500/year through peak-shave arbitrage alone. Payback: 5–8 years.

Scenario B: Full Net-Metering (NEM 1.0 / All-You-Can-Export) You generate solar electricity, and excess power flows to the grid at the same rate you buy retail power (typically 12–16¢/kWh). You're not penalized for exporting. Examples: older California customers, some parts of Massachusetts, Vermont.

→ Battery ROI: Marginal. A battery lets you time-shift, but there's no rate spread to exploit. Payback: 10–15 years. A battery makes sense here primarily for outage backup, not financial return. Ask yourself: How often does your grid fail? If fewer than 2–3 times per year for more than an hour, skip the battery unless you have other goals.

Scenario C: No-Export or Capped-Export Policies Your utility doesn't allow solar to feed back to the grid, or they cap it at 10–20% of generation. Examples: parts of Hawaii, some co-op utilities in the Midwest. A battery is mandatory if you've already installed solar—otherwise, generated power during peak sun hours is wasted.

→ Battery ROI: Essential. You have no choice if you've installed solar. Payback: 4–6 years.

Action: Log into your utility account or call them directly. Ask: "What rate structure am I on? Is there a time-of-use option? What happens to excess solar power I generate?" Write the answers down.

2.2 Check HOA & Fire-Code Clearance

Batteries are classified as electrical equipment and, depending on chemistry, as hazardous materials. Your jurisdiction will enforce fire and building codes.

HOA Check: Many HOAs restrict exterior equipment or battery installations. A few HOAs prohibit them entirely. Check your CC&Rs (Covenants, Conditions, and Restrictions) or call your HOA board.

→ If approved in writing: Keep that approval in your records for warranty claims.
→ If not mentioned: You'll likely need written architectural approval before installation. This adds 2–4 weeks.

Fire & Electrical Code Check: Most residential installations must comply with:

• NEC Article 706 (Interconnected Power Production Sources): Mandates rapid-shutdown disconnects so first responders can de-energize your battery safely if there's a fire.
• 36-inch clearance minimum: Fire code typically requires 3 feet of clear space around the battery for cooling, inspection, and emergency access.
• Location restrictions: Most jurisdictions don't allow batteries in bedrooms, living spaces, or directly next to water heaters. Garages, utility closets, and exterior walls are common.

→ Action: Call your local Authority Having Jurisdiction (AHJ)—usually the city or county building department. Ask if a battery installer needs a permit (answer: almost always yes). Request a copy of the relevant fire and electrical codes for battery storage.

2.3 Check Your Existing Solar Inverter

If you already have solar, your inverter type determines how easily a battery integrates. There are three coupling methods:

AC-Coupled (Most Flexible) The battery has its own inverter/charger and connects to your home's AC electrical panel, just like a secondary power source. Works with any existing solar inverter (string inverters, microinverters).

→ Pros: Retrofit any existing system. No equipment replacement.
→ Cons: Slight efficiency loss (~10%) due to double power conversion (DC→AC→DC→AC). Slightly higher cost due to separate battery inverter.
→ Best for: Existing solar with string inverters.

DC-Coupled (Most Efficient) The battery connects directly to your solar panels' DC (direct current) side via a single charge controller. Single conversion process (DC→AC once).

→ Pros: Higher efficiency (~95%). Lower cost overall.
→ Cons: Requires compatible solar charge controller. Often requires replacing existing inverter or adding a hybrid inverter.
→ Best for: New installations or complete system upgrades.

Hybrid Inverter (Purpose-Built) One unit handles both solar and battery management. All-in-one, designed from the ground up for solar-plus-storage.

→ Pros: Simplest design. Best energy management features. Lowest installation complexity.
→ Cons: Less flexible; tied to one manufacturer's ecosystem. If it fails, both solar and battery go down.
→ Best for: New installations where you choose everything at once.

→ Action: Find your existing solar inverter model number (usually on a label in your garage or electrical room). Call your solar installer or battery installer and ask: "Can we add a battery with my current setup? Will it be AC-coupled or DC-coupled?" Most installers will confirm compatibility within 10 minutes.

Size It in 3 Steps (Build Your Own Calculator)

Once you've confirmed a battery makes sense for your situation, the next question is: How big should it be?

Oversizing wastes money. Undersizing means you won't capture enough savings or backup power. The goal is the "Goldilocks" size—just right for your home's needs.

3.1 Gather Your Last 12 Months of Hourly Usage Data

Your utility company stores this data and will often share it for free via a program called Green Button (also called interval data or smart meter data).

How to access it:

1. Log into your utility's online account.
2. Look for "Green Button," "Download My Data," "Hourly Usage," or "Interval Data."
3. If you don't see it, call your utility and ask: "Can I access my hourly electricity usage for the past 12 months?" Many will email it as a CSV file within 24 hours.

What to look for:

• Your peak usage hour (usually 5–8 p.m. in summer)
• Your average daily consumption (sum all hours, divide by 365)
• Your seasonal variation (summer vs. winter)

Example: Your hourly data shows you use an average of 28 kWh/day, with peaks at 6–7 p.m. of 3.5 kW.

3.2 Match Your Usage to Solar Production (Calculate Surplus kWh/Day)

If you already have solar, pull your average monthly generation from your inverter's app or your utility bill.

If you don't have solar yet, estimate based on your location:

• Sunny region (Arizona, Southern California, Texas): ~5 peak sun hours/day
• Moderate region (Colorado, New Mexico, Midwest): ~4 peak sun hours/day
• Cloudy region (Pacific Northwest, Northeast): ~3 peak sun hours/day

Multiply your solar system size (kW) by peak sun hours to get daily generation.

Example: You have a 7 kW solar system in California (5 peak sun hours/day average year-round). Daily generation ≈ 35 kWh. But you use 28 kWh. Daily surplus ≈ 7 kWh on average.

3.3 Choose Your Goal & Get an Auto-Recommended Size

Three common goals lead to three different battery sizes:

Goal A: Outage-Only Backup You want power during grid failures, but you don't care about daily bill savings.

→ Calculate your essential-appliances-only usage during a typical outage (refrigerator, lights, Wi-Fi, medical equipment, a few outlets). Most homes use 1–2 kW continuously and 500–800 kWh per outage hour.

→ Recommended size: 2–5 kWh (enough for 8–12 hours of essentials).

Goal B: Peak-Shave & Outage You want to save on peak-rate hours and have backup power.

→ Look at your peak-rate hours (typically 5–9 p.m.) and your usage during that window. A typical household uses 8–12 kWh during peak hours.

→ Recommended size: 10 kWh (covers most evening peak consumption + gives 4–8 hours of post-outage buffer).

Goal C: Full Self-Supply (Maximize Solar Utilization) You want to use 80–90% of your solar generation on-site rather than export to the grid.

→ Divide your daily surplus (from Step 3.2) by 1.5 (accounting for round-trip efficiency and the need to stay charged). Example: 7 kWh surplus ÷ 1.5 ≈ 5 kWh needed. But add a buffer for cloudy days: multiply by 1.5 again = 7.5 kWh, round to 10 kWh.

→ Recommended size: 1–2 kWh of storage per 1 kW of solar system. (For a 7 kW system, 10–15 kWh.)

Battery Tech Cheat-Sheet: Which Chemistry is Right?

Bottom line for 2024: LiFePO₄ (Lithium-Iron-Phosphate) is the standard. It's safe, lasts 10–15 years, and prices have dropped 40% since 2020. Lead-acid is declining except for small backup systems. Saltwater is emerging but still niche.

2024 Best-Value Matrix: Pick Your Budget Tier

Each tier shows installed cost, continuous power output, emergency start-up time, warranty, and Virtual Power Plant (VPP) eligibility. All prices include installation, permits, and interconnection.

Tier 1: DIY Entry (5 kWh) | $3,500–$4,500

Typical Setup: Ampere Time or ExpertPower 12V 100Ah LiFePO₄ + Sol-Ark 8K hybrid inverter + wiring + permit drawings (you install, licensed electrician does final connections).

What's included: Battery cabinet, mounting hardware, permit drawings, breakers, DC disconnect, inverter, basic app monitoring.

What's not: Electrician labor (add $800–$1,200).

Tier 2: Entry-Level Professional (10 kWh) | $6,500–$8,000

Typical Setup: LG RESU Prime 10H or Enphase IQ Battery 10.08kWh + professional install, permits, commissioning, app setup.

What's included: Full installation (permits, inspections, AHJ sign-off), rapid-shutdown compliance, app setup, 24/7 monitoring, 1-year service plan.

Payback: 6–9 years in time-of-use areas; 12–15 years in net-metering areas.

Tier 3: Premium (13–15 kWh) | $10,000–$12,000

Typical Setup: Tesla Powerwall 3 (13.5 kWh + integrated inverter) or Enphase IQ Battery 10.08 kWh stacked (10.08 × 2 units).

What's included: Professional design, installation, permitting, commissioning, remote firmware updates, cybersecurity monitoring, integration with home automation.

Payback: 5–7 years in high TOU-spread areas; 10–12 years in moderate areas.

Tier 4: Large / Virtual Power Plant–Ready (20+ kWh) | $14,000–$18,000

Typical Setup: Generac PWRcell (9–36 kWh scalable) or Sonnen EcoLinx (20–30 kWh).

What's included: Oversized capacity (handles EV + home loads simultaneously), redundancy, advanced islanding capability, professional-grade monitoring, optional VPP enrollment for ongoing revenue.

Payback: 4–6 years in high TOU-spread + VPP revenue areas; 8–10 years standard.

Money Section: Real-World ROI in Three Markets

6.1 Cash-Flow Example: Same 10 kWh System in Three Different Regions

Scenario: 10 kWh LG RESU Prime system, 7 kW solar already installed, professional installation, $7,500 net cost after 30% federal tax credit.

San Diego, California (Southern California Edison, TOU rates: off-peak 10¢, peak 35¢)

• Annual peak-shave savings: $1,200 (shifting 4 kWh/day × 250 peak days × $0.25 rate spread)
• Outage protection value: $100/year (rare outages, but $500 value if one occurs)
• Year 1 return: $1,300 ($1,300 ÷ $7,500 = 17.3% year-one ROI)
• Payback period: 5.8 years
• 25-year lifetime value: $32,500 (savings minus one battery replacement at year 15, adjusted for 8% annual cost decline)

Houston, Texas (CenterPoint Energy, mostly flat rates 9¢, small TOU peak 4–9 p.m. +2¢)

• Annual peak-shave savings: $180 (4 kWh/day × 250 peak days × $0.02 rate spread) ← low spread
• Outage protection value: $150/year (frequent summer brownouts, but short)
• Year 1 return: $330
• Payback period: 22.7 years (Poor! This is why Houston batteries are less common.)
• 25-year lifetime value: $8,200 (barely breaks even)

→ Verdict for Houston: Skip battery unless you have frequent multi-hour outages or plan an EV purchase.

Burlington, Vermont (Green Mountain Power, full net-metering 14¢ retail, rare outages, VPP program $100/year flat incentive)

• Annual peak-shave savings: $0 (no rate differential; all surplus exported at 14¢)
• Outage protection value: $200/year (cold winters, rare but valuable when they occur)
• VPP incentive (Green Mountain Power battery program): $100/year
• Year 1 return: $300
• Payback period: 25 years (not feasible; battery lifespan ends before payback)
• 25-year lifetime value: $7,500 (one replacement cost wipes out savings)

→ Verdict for Vermont: Battery is only justifiable for outage security or if utility changes to TOU rates in the future. Otherwise, skip it.

6.2 Incentive Stack: Federal + State + Utility

The 30% federal Investment Tax Credit (ITC) is the foundation. But state and utility incentives can cut another $1,500–$5,000 off your net cost:

Federal (All Regions)

• 30% Investment Tax Credit (ITC) through 2032 on battery systems charged by renewable sources
• Example: $10,000 system → $3,000 credit (takes $3,000 off your tax bill)

State Programs (if applicable)

Utility Programs (Virtual Power Plant Revenue)

Some utilities will pay you to let them discharge your battery during grid emergencies:

• SCE/PG&E (California): $500–$1,500/year for Powerwall 3 participation
• Xcel Energy: $50–$200/year depending on participation tier
• Green Mountain Power: $100/year flat (Vermont)

Stacking Example (California): 10 kWh LG RESU Prime

• Base cost: $10,000
• Federal 30% ITC: −$3,000
• SGIP incentive ($300/kWh): −$3,000
• Subtotal after incentives: $4,000
• Annual VPP revenue: +$500/year
• Payback period: 3.2 years (vs. 5.8 years without SGIP)

→ Action: Before purchasing, ask your installer to model incentives specific to your address and utility. Use DSIRE.org (Database of State Incentives for Renewables & Efficiency) to check all available programs.

6.3 Replacement Cost Curve: Battery Prices Fall 8% Annually

Battery costs are declining 8–10% per year as manufacturing scales. This matters because most homeowners will replace their battery once during a 25-year solar panel lifespan.

Current 10 kWh LiFePO₄ installed cost: $9,500

Projected cost at year 15 replacement:

• Year 15 = 15 annual declines of 8%
• $9,500 × (0.92)^15 = $9,500 × 0.31 = $2,945

25-Year ROI Model (10 kWh system, San Diego TOU rates, $7,500 after tax credit)

→ The falling cost of replacement actually improves long-term ROI because you're buying a better battery for less money.

Installation Pathways: Pro, Hybrid, or Full DIY

7.1 Professional Installation (Recommended for Most)

A certified solar + battery installer handles permitting, design, installation, interconnection, commissioning, and AHJ sign-off.

What's included:

• Site survey and electrical design (NEC 706 compliance, rapid-shutdown logic)
• Permit applications and all fees
• Installation labor (typically 1–2 days)
• Equipment interconnection (battery to home, solar to battery, home to grid)
• Commissioning (testing all safety systems, confirming backup power works)
• App setup and user training
• Warranty registration
• Utility interconnection (for grid-tied systems)

Timeline: 2–4 weeks total (design + permits + installation).

Cost: $10,000–$12,000 for a 10 kWh system (includes labor, equipment, soft costs).

Warranty: Full manufacturer coverage + 1–2 year service plan.

7.2 Hybrid DIY (Saves ~$1,200, Requires Moderate Skills)

You handle the non-electrical work (mounting, cable runs, permits). A licensed electrician makes the AC/DC connections and handles final sign-off.

What you do:

• Mount battery cabinet (measure, drill, bolt)
• Run conduit and wire from batteries to disconnect switch
• Run AC wiring from disconnect to electrical panel

What the electrician does:

• Verify code compliance (NEC 706, 690, 750)
• Make DC connections (battery to charge controller)
• Connect AC wiring (battery inverter to panel)
• Install rapid-shutdown disconnect
• Perform arc-flash and ground-fault tests
• Certify to AHJ

Cost: $600–$1,000 for electrician labor (vs. $3,500–$4,500 for full installation).

Requirement: Basic electrical knowledge, comfortable with tools, and a willingness to pull permits yourself.

Warranty: May be reduced or conditional; check manufacturer's policy before attempting.

7.3 Installation Inspection Checklist (For AHJ Sign-Off)

The Authority Having Jurisdiction (AHJ, usually the city/county building department) will inspect your installation. Here's what they verify:

Rapid-Shutdown Compliance (NEC Article 706)

• ☐ Rapid-shutdown label visible and legible (red label stating "RAPID SHUTDOWN SWITCH")
• ☐ Main disconnect switch accessible within 10 feet, clearly labeled
• ☐ Disconnect de-energizes entire battery system when triggered
• ☐ Electrician confirms switch operation

Electrical Safety (NEC Articles 690, 750)

• ☐ Arc-fault protection installed on all DC circuits (AFCI breakers or module-level AFCI)
• ☐ Ground-fault protection on all DC circuits (GFDI or GFDI-protected combiner)
• ☐ Battery disconnects are rated for DC current (AC-rated disconnects fail in DC)
• ☐ All wire gauge is correct per system voltage and continuous current rating
• ☐ Grounding is continuous and tested (resistance < 25 ohms)

Fire & Life Safety

• ☐ Battery enclosure has 36-inch clearance on all sides (for ventilation, inspection, fire access)
• ☐ No flammable materials within 6 feet
• ☐ Proper ventilation holes aren't blocked
• ☐ Temperature sensor is installed and operational (if battery is indoors)

Permits & Documentation

• ☐ Permit number posted on electrical panel
• ☐ One-line diagram matches actual installation
• ☐ Equipment cut-sheets filed with permit
• ☐ Installer certification on file

Safety & Warranty Landmines: Avoid These 5 Mistakes

1. Extreme Temperature Installation

Most lithium-ion home batteries have strict operating limits. Violate them and you void the warranty.

Battery warranty voids if:

• Ambient temperature exceeds 110°F continuously (interior garage in Arizona = risk)
• Relative humidity exceeds 85% (no basement installations in humid climates without dehumidification)
• Temperature drops below 32°F during charging (garage in Minnesota winter + cold soak = voided warranty)

How to avoid: Install batteries in climate-controlled utility rooms (60–77°F year-round) or use mini-split AC/heating in the installation space. Cost: $1,500–$2,500, but preserves warranty.

2. Non-Certified Installer

Using an electrician who isn't familiar with battery systems is the #1 warranty killer.

Battery warranty voids if:

• Installation doesn't follow manufacturer's handbook
• Permits aren't pulled or AHJ doesn't sign off
• Firmware is rolled back or modified (never downgrade firmware without manufacturer approval)
• Inverter settings are changed from factory configuration

How to avoid: Use a certified installer (ask for NABCEP, CSLB, or manufacturer-training credentials). Check warranties carefully for "installation must be performed by XYZ" clauses. Get proof of AHJ final sign-off.

3. Operating System Outside Design Range

Once installed, running your battery outside its design window degrades it and voids coverage.

Don't:

• ☐ Deep-discharge below 10% state-of-charge continuously (reserve stays locked for emergencies)
• ☐ Fast-charge from solar at more than manufacturer's C-rate (typically 1C, meaning 10 kWh charges in 10 hours max)
• ☐ Cycle more than 365 times per year (daily cycle = 1 cycle; partial discharge same day = 0.3 cycle)

Do:

• ☐ Configure battery management to stay in the 20–80% range during normal operation
• ☐ Reserve 10–20% for backup power
• ☐ Charge/discharge at moderate rates (4–6 hours minimum for full cycle)

4. HOA Architectural Approval Not Documented

If your HOA requires approval and you install without it, your HOA can force removal and sue for violations.

What to do:

1. Check CC&Rs for restrictions on "exterior equipment," "visible modifications," or "alterations"
2. Submit written request to HOA with:
   • Photos of proposed location
   • Equipment spec sheet (dimensions, colors, noise level)
   • Letter from installer confirming it will meet fire code
3. Get written approval in writing (email counts)
4. Keep approval in your records for 10 years

→ Download template: [HOA Architectural Approval Request (editable PDF)] (user can create this)

5. Moving the House: Battery Stays vs. Takes

This is unclear to many homeowners. Here are the rules:

If the battery is hardwired to your electrical system:

• Legally, it's a "fixture" and stays with the house
• Buyer assumes the remaining warranty
• You can negotiate: "Battery stays" vs. "Unbolt and take with me" (complicated; requires electrician)

If you want to take it:

• Cost to unbolt, test, and re-certify: $800–$2,000
• Moving it to a new home requires new permit and installation: $1,500–$3,000
• Recommendation: Keep it. It adds ~$5,000–$8,000 to home value (most appraisers count stored-energy systems as upgrades).

Environmental Reality Check: Is It Truly Carbon-Negative?

Solar batteries have an environmental footprint from manufacturing. This section corrects the claim that "batteries are always green."

Manufacturing Emissions per kWh of Battery:

• Lithium-ion (LFP): 80–150 kg CO₂-equivalent
• Lead-acid: 120–180 kg CO₂-equivalent
• Saltwater: 40–60 kg CO₂-equivalent (lower toxicity, fewer mining emissions)

For a 10 kWh LiFePO₄ battery: ~1,200 kg CO₂ emissions during manufacturing.

How long until a battery "pays back" its manufacturing carbon?

A 10 kWh battery charged daily from solar (vs. grid) displaces ~3.6 metric tons of CO₂ per year (assuming US average grid mix of 400 g CO₂/kWh).

Carbon payback period: 1,200 kg ÷ 3,600 kg/year = ~4 months

After 4 months, every kWh cycled through the battery is a net carbon win.

25-Year Lifecycle Carbon Math:

• Manufacturing footprint: 1,200 kg CO₂
• Cycles over 25 years: ~9,100 cycles (daily + seasonal variance)
• Avoided grid carbon over 25 years: ~32,700 kg CO₂ (assuming US average grid)
• Net carbon benefit: +31,500 kg CO₂ saved (equivalent to driving a gasoline car 75,000 miles)

→ Chart: Carbon payback timeline (user can visualize: green area grows after month 4; blue area = manufacturing debt paid off)

The environmental case is strong: batteries pay back their manufacturing carbon in a few months and then deliver 24+ years of clean energy value.

Forward-Looking 2-Minute Takeaway: Which Battery Verdict is Yours?

"I have full net-metering and outages are rare."
→ Verdict: Skip the battery. You're already exporting excess solar at fair rates. An outage happens once every 5 years. Generator for emergencies is cheaper.

"My utility has time-of-use rates and peak spreads > 20¢."
→ Verdict: Buy a 10 kWh now. Plan to add a second unit when you buy an EV. Peak-shave payback is 5–8 years. An EV will double your evening usage, making a second battery highly profitable.

"I live in an area with frequent outages (hurricanes, wildfire shutdowns, grid instability)."
→ Verdict: Buy 15 kWh capacity; prioritize brand warranty (Tesla Powerwall or LG RESU). Backup power is your primary value. Bill savings are a bonus.

"I want to maximize solar self-consumption and minimize grid dependency."
→ Verdict: Buy 1–2 kWh per kW of solar (up to 15 kWh), set to 80%+ self-consumption mode. You'll use nearly every watt your panels generate. This is the longest payback (10–12 years) but strongest environmental outcome.

"I'm undecided and need one more push."
→ Verdict: Check your peak rate spread. If peak (4–9 p.m.) costs more than 25¢/kWh and off-peak (9 p.m.–6 a.m.) costs less than 10¢/kWh, buy. Otherwise, wait 2–3 years for battery prices to drop further.

Appendix: Printable Buyer's Checklist

Print this PDF before meeting with installers. Take photos of each item with your phone to speed up the quote process.

Pre-Installation Checklist (Do This Now)

• ☐ Utility rate structure confirmed (TOU vs. net-metering vs. no-export). Write rate: _____ ¢/kWh peak, _____ ¢/kWh off-peak.
• ☐ HOA approval obtained (if applicable). File date: _______
• ☐ Fire code permit requirements identified. AHJ name: ________________. Permit required? Y / N
• ☐ Electrical panel location & amperage confirmed. Panel location: _________________. Main breaker: _____ A
• ☐ Solar inverter model number recorded. Model: _________________. Location: _________________
• ☐ Battery location selected (utility room, garage, etc.). Location: _________________. Dimensions available (W×D×H): _____ × _____ × _____
• ☐ Backup power essentials identified. Which circuits must stay on during outages? (refrigerator, well pump, medical equipment, etc.): _________________

Quote Comparison Checklist (Before Signing)

• ☐ Battery model & capacity (kWh). Model: _________________. Capacity: _____ kWh. Usable capacity: _____ kWh
• ☐ Continuous power output (kW). Output: _____ kW (matches peak outage load?)
• ☐ Installation scope documented. Included: ☐ Permit ☐ Disconnects ☐ Rapid-shutdown ☐ App setup ☐ Commissioning. Not included: _________________
• ☐ Warranty details recorded. Battery warranty: _____ years. Inverter warranty: _____ years. Capacity guarantee: _____ % at year 10
• ☐ Total installed cost (after incentives). Equipment: $_____ Labor: $_____ Permits: $_____ Tax credit (30%): −$_____ Total: $______
• ☐ Timeline confirmed. Design: _____ days. Permit wait: _____ days. Installation: _____ days. Total: _____ days to operational.
• ☐ Service & support plan. Annual maintenance included? Y/N. Emergency support hours: . Cost: $
• ☐ VPP program eligibility checked. Eligible for grid services programs? Y/N. Potential annual revenue: $_____

Post-Installation Checklist (After AHJ Sign-Off)

• ☐ Permit card posted (on electrical panel, visible to inspectors)
• ☐ Rapid-shutdown label installed (red, clearly visible, within 10 feet of battery)
• ☐ Equipment manual & warranties filed (physical copies + digital scans backed up to cloud)
• ☐ Utility notification complete (interconnection agreement signed, utility system recognized your battery)
• ☐ App login saved (manufacturer app, username: ____________, password stored securely)
• ☐ First full cycle logged (charge and discharge battery to 100% and 10%, note app readings)
• ☐ Backup power tested (manually disconnect from grid, confirm essential circuits power up; reconnect after 5 min)
• ☐ Service record started (document installation date, installer name, next service date: ______)

Close

You now have the full roadmap: from utility rate checks to post-installation testing. A home battery isn't a purchase you make on impulse. It's a financial and technical decision that depends on your specific utility structure, home, and goals.

Start with section 2 (Can I Even Add One?). If all three boxes check, move to section 3 (sizing). From there, pick a tier from section 5 and model your ROI with your actual numbers from section 6.

The difference between a great battery decision and a regrettable one is doing this homework. The incentives, regulations, and cost curves shift annually. By 2025, battery prices will have fallen another 8%, expanding the payback window for more homeowners. Your future self will either thank you for buying now or smile at the deal you're going to get next year.

The question isn't whether a battery makes sense. The question is whether it makes sense for your specific situation.

Use this guide to answer that question clearly.